2017年10月31日（火）
Most of us only think about our brakes when they make noise or fail
Most of us only think about our brakes when they make noise or fail. Otherwise, we expect them to work flawlessly whenever we press down on brake pad suppliers
the pedal. When we do so, the force is amplified and transmitted from the master cylinder to the calipers and pads. The pads respond by squeezing down on the rotor and thus, bringing our vehicle to a stop.
There are several factors that can impair this process and it s often difficult to identify the root cause from the symptoms. Sometimes, people hear a grinding noise or feel a pulsation when they press down on the brake pedal. Other times, the pedal feels spongy or drops to the floorboard. We ll clarify some of the potential problems that can occur by addressing five of the most common questions people ask about their brakes.
#1 What Does A Squeal Mean?
Squealing is typically caused by vibrations. These vibrations can occur if the pads are held too loosely between the calipers, or the surface of the rotors is rough. In most cases, a squeal does not suggest that you need to have your pads replaced or rotors resurfaced. The pads likely have sufficient lining to work properly despite the noise.
If the squeal is due to loose pads, you can install special shims to eliminate the looseness. These shims are thinly cut strips that reduce the space between the pads and calipers. If the rotors are rough, you can have them resurfaced, but make sure that s the root cause of the squeal. There is a minimum thickness past which rotors become unusable. They are often expensive to replace.
#2 What Causes Pulsing When I Press The Pedal?
If you feel pulsations when you press down on the brake pedal, there s a good chance your rotors are warped or bent. The former problem occurs due to heat spots that develop over time, or because the metal expands and contracts due to exposure to water. It can also occur if the pads are worn to the point where exposed metal is grinding on the rotors. Warping can be addressed through resurfacing. The latter issue can rarely be fixed; the rotor usually needs to be replaced.
#3 When Should I Get A Brake Job?
If, while driving, you notice pulsations, pulling to one side, or a pedal that seems low or spongy, take your car to a mechanic. There is something wrong with the braking system that should be fixed. Even if you don t notice any of these symptoms, your brake pads may still need to be replaced. You should check them periodically (you may need to remove your tires to do so) to examine the thickness of each pad s lining. If it is below the manufacturer s recommended minimum thickness, have them replaced.
#4 What Does A Mechanic Do During A Brake Job?
It depends. Some repair shops offer specials during which they ll replace your pads and bleed the lines. The mechanics will seldom touch the rotors, but may suggest resurfacing if they re worn or warped (for a higher price, of course). Other shops will perform a complete inspection and repair or replace any component that needs to be addressed. That might include replacing the pads, resurfacing the rotors, or repairing the calipers.
#5 When Should I Have The Rotor Replaced?
Earlier, I mentioned that rotors have a minimum thickness past which they cannot be used. This thickness is usually stamped onto the component. Once it is crossed, a replacement is necessary. Also, if your rotor needs to be resurfaced, but doing so crosses the minimum threshold, you will need to have it replaced. Lastly, a replacement is necessary if the rotor sustains damage of any kind.
The process by which your brake system brings your vehicle to a stop is relatively simple. But there are plenty of things that can go wrong. If you experience grinding, pulling, pulsing, or a lazy pedal, have your mechanic inspect the system and resolve the problem as soon as possible.
the pedal. When we do so, the force is amplified and transmitted from the master cylinder to the calipers and pads. The pads respond by squeezing down on the rotor and thus, bringing our vehicle to a stop.There are several factors that can impair this process and it s often difficult to identify the root cause from the symptoms. Sometimes, people hear a grinding noise or feel a pulsation when they press down on the brake pedal. Other times, the pedal feels spongy or drops to the floorboard. We ll clarify some of the potential problems that can occur by addressing five of the most common questions people ask about their brakes.
#1 What Does A Squeal Mean?
Squealing is typically caused by vibrations. These vibrations can occur if the pads are held too loosely between the calipers, or the surface of the rotors is rough. In most cases, a squeal does not suggest that you need to have your pads replaced or rotors resurfaced. The pads likely have sufficient lining to work properly despite the noise.
If the squeal is due to loose pads, you can install special shims to eliminate the looseness. These shims are thinly cut strips that reduce the space between the pads and calipers. If the rotors are rough, you can have them resurfaced, but make sure that s the root cause of the squeal. There is a minimum thickness past which rotors become unusable. They are often expensive to replace.
#2 What Causes Pulsing When I Press The Pedal?
If you feel pulsations when you press down on the brake pedal, there s a good chance your rotors are warped or bent. The former problem occurs due to heat spots that develop over time, or because the metal expands and contracts due to exposure to water. It can also occur if the pads are worn to the point where exposed metal is grinding on the rotors. Warping can be addressed through resurfacing. The latter issue can rarely be fixed; the rotor usually needs to be replaced.
#3 When Should I Get A Brake Job?
If, while driving, you notice pulsations, pulling to one side, or a pedal that seems low or spongy, take your car to a mechanic. There is something wrong with the braking system that should be fixed. Even if you don t notice any of these symptoms, your brake pads may still need to be replaced. You should check them periodically (you may need to remove your tires to do so) to examine the thickness of each pad s lining. If it is below the manufacturer s recommended minimum thickness, have them replaced.
#4 What Does A Mechanic Do During A Brake Job?
It depends. Some repair shops offer specials during which they ll replace your pads and bleed the lines. The mechanics will seldom touch the rotors, but may suggest resurfacing if they re worn or warped (for a higher price, of course). Other shops will perform a complete inspection and repair or replace any component that needs to be addressed. That might include replacing the pads, resurfacing the rotors, or repairing the calipers.
#5 When Should I Have The Rotor Replaced?
Earlier, I mentioned that rotors have a minimum thickness past which they cannot be used. This thickness is usually stamped onto the component. Once it is crossed, a replacement is necessary. Also, if your rotor needs to be resurfaced, but doing so crosses the minimum threshold, you will need to have it replaced. Lastly, a replacement is necessary if the rotor sustains damage of any kind.
The process by which your brake system brings your vehicle to a stop is relatively simple. But there are plenty of things that can go wrong. If you experience grinding, pulling, pulsing, or a lazy pedal, have your mechanic inspect the system and resolve the problem as soon as possible.
2017年10月31日（火）
Bends in both heavy metal sheets
Bends in both heavy metal sheets as well as in thinner materials are made by one of the two kinds of press brakes. These two kinds are the mechanical press brake and the hydraulic press brake. Hydraulic press brake systems are more ideal when a person needs to apply an extreme amount of pressure. The hydraulic system is capable of going over 50,000 metric tones. Hydraulics are predominantly chosen since they offer steady pressure all through the extensive stroke length, high or variable forces, and wide variations brake lining manufacturers in stroke length. There is a lot that goes into the hydraulic press brake systems, and you should gain a basic knowledge of it, which is the intent of this provided list.
1. Hydraulic Fluid
Hydraulic fluid runs through the hydraulic press brake system. A lot of force pushes the hydraulic fluid. The force comes from the hydraulic pump and energizes the fluid. The fluid then moves into the cylinders, which are the actuators, and drops off large amounts of energy to the piston. The piston controls the bending tools. Once the energy has been delivered to the piston, the fluid moves back into the hydraulic pump where it is recycled to repeat. Petroleum oil with additives makes up the hydraulic fluid.
Also, the hydraulic fluid oils the assortment of workings in the hydraulic press brake and gets rid of the contaminants and metal fittings. This fluid can function in temperatures in the hundreds of degrees Celsius. It heats in the hydraulic pump when energy is produced.
2. Hydraulic Pump
The hydraulic pump creates the power that rejuvenates the hydraulic fluid and sends it through to finish the pressing operations. If you see a pump that has the rating of 5,000 psi, it means that the pump is able to uphold the flow of liquid against the loads of 5,000 psi or it can apply that much pressure. The power density of hydraulic motors is ten times that of electric motors by volume; gears, belts, or flexible couplings join the engine. It can be a gear pump, vane pump, axial piston pump, or radial piston pump.
3. Actuator
The power held within the hydraulic fluid is relinquished to the actuator, and the pressing operation is finished. There is a range of actuators, but the most commonly used in hydraulic press brakes are the hydraulic cylinders. The hydraulic cylinder consists of a cylinder barrel and a reciprocating piston. Hydraulic fluid energy is taken to the piston for the process of metal sheet pressing. The stroke length of the piston can be automatic, depending on the depth of the metal sheet and angle of the bend. The pistons stroke length varies because of the cylinders stroke length; forces and pressure of the piston are maintained and complete pressure is allowed by the entire stroke. The speed can be steady or programmed to change. The hydraulic cylinder is the motor side.
4. Control valves
The control valves guide the hydraulic fluid to the preferred actuators and control the amount of fluid and energy that is allowed to reach the actuator. When multiple actuators are involved, the control valves evenly dispense the fluid.
in stroke length. There is a lot that goes into the hydraulic press brake systems, and you should gain a basic knowledge of it, which is the intent of this provided list.1. Hydraulic Fluid
Hydraulic fluid runs through the hydraulic press brake system. A lot of force pushes the hydraulic fluid. The force comes from the hydraulic pump and energizes the fluid. The fluid then moves into the cylinders, which are the actuators, and drops off large amounts of energy to the piston. The piston controls the bending tools. Once the energy has been delivered to the piston, the fluid moves back into the hydraulic pump where it is recycled to repeat. Petroleum oil with additives makes up the hydraulic fluid.
Also, the hydraulic fluid oils the assortment of workings in the hydraulic press brake and gets rid of the contaminants and metal fittings. This fluid can function in temperatures in the hundreds of degrees Celsius. It heats in the hydraulic pump when energy is produced.
2. Hydraulic Pump
The hydraulic pump creates the power that rejuvenates the hydraulic fluid and sends it through to finish the pressing operations. If you see a pump that has the rating of 5,000 psi, it means that the pump is able to uphold the flow of liquid against the loads of 5,000 psi or it can apply that much pressure. The power density of hydraulic motors is ten times that of electric motors by volume; gears, belts, or flexible couplings join the engine. It can be a gear pump, vane pump, axial piston pump, or radial piston pump.
3. Actuator
The power held within the hydraulic fluid is relinquished to the actuator, and the pressing operation is finished. There is a range of actuators, but the most commonly used in hydraulic press brakes are the hydraulic cylinders. The hydraulic cylinder consists of a cylinder barrel and a reciprocating piston. Hydraulic fluid energy is taken to the piston for the process of metal sheet pressing. The stroke length of the piston can be automatic, depending on the depth of the metal sheet and angle of the bend. The pistons stroke length varies because of the cylinders stroke length; forces and pressure of the piston are maintained and complete pressure is allowed by the entire stroke. The speed can be steady or programmed to change. The hydraulic cylinder is the motor side.
4. Control valves
The control valves guide the hydraulic fluid to the preferred actuators and control the amount of fluid and energy that is allowed to reach the actuator. When multiple actuators are involved, the control valves evenly dispense the fluid.
2017年10月24日（火）
How you can Change Your Brake Pads and Rotors
First, decide should your going to replace the pads by any means four wheels or just simply two. You'll replace this pads in pairs, the front wheels or rear tires. For a complete position and best results, perform all 4 wheels. If you are budget and/or time restrictions won't allow it, do front or rear. The leading wheel brake calipers, pads, and rotors are larger than those to the rear and cost a bit more. The procedures for both are basically identical. By determining whether the brake job is for two wheels or four will likely determine whether you'll jack the front, rear, or both ends with the vehicle. If you have a direct impact gun to remove the lug nuts in the wheels, you can proceed when using the jacking. If you have to remove the lug nuts with a crowbar, you should loosen them a (breaking the seize) protected wheels are on the particular ground. Once the wheels have been in the air, they could turn freely, which will make removing the lug nuts very difficult, if not impossible. Safely jack the vehicle and support it on jack stalls. Never perform work while an automobile is only supported by way of a jack. Jacks fail and you'll be putting your life in danger.
Once a wheel is definitely removed, remove the anti-rattle clip (if applicable) through prying it and sliding it out that has a large screwdriver. Next, let us remove the brake caliper. For that front wheels, it may perhaps be necessary to turn the actual steering completely either on the right or to the left to access the caliper guide mounting bolts. Typically, they are within the back side of the caliper. The caliper guide bolts might have dust caps. These will probably be made of rubber and also plastic. Use a little screwdriver to pry all of them out. Once the truck caps are removed, the bolt heads will be exposed. Using your ratchet and the appropriate socket or Allen tiny bit, remove the 2 bolts. Grasp the caliper and pull it faraway from the rotor. You ought to use a large screwdriver for you to pry it loose. Remove each brake pads from the actual caliper, prying if important. One brake pad could be attached to the caliper piston by way of clip. Loosen the clip as well as pad will fall away. If your vehicle provides you with brake pad sensor electrical wires, carefully remove the wire in the pad. The sensor wire will probably be on one pad of either the right or left wheel. Make note which wheel has the cable.
Now, its time to re-compress the caliper piston. When brake pads wear, they cause the piston to push further and further out of your caliper. The piston must possibly be pushed back in for you to fit the new, thicker brake pad set up. You can use one of many old pads and the piston compression tool or even c-clamp to push it back. Simply place the old pad over the piston and make tighter the tool or c-clamp to press it instruction online place. Use your bungee wire to hang the heavy caliper from the spring or suspension carrier as you get ready to install the newest pads. Never calipers to suspend by their brake lines as they quite simply are heavy and will damage the line. Place a few rags under the areas and spray brake parts cleaner liberally into the caliper, bolts, bracket, and so on. to thoroughly clean anything. You may need make use of your wire cleaning brush too.
http://www.shield-brakes.com/product/brake-shoe-2.html
Once a wheel is definitely removed, remove the anti-rattle clip (if applicable) through prying it and sliding it out that has a large screwdriver. Next, let us remove the brake caliper. For that front wheels, it may perhaps be necessary to turn the actual steering completely either on the right or to the left to access the caliper guide mounting bolts. Typically, they are within the back side of the caliper. The caliper guide bolts might have dust caps. These will probably be made of rubber and also plastic. Use a little screwdriver to pry all of them out. Once the truck caps are removed, the bolt heads will be exposed. Using your ratchet and the appropriate socket or Allen tiny bit, remove the 2 bolts. Grasp the caliper and pull it faraway from the rotor. You ought to use a large screwdriver for you to pry it loose. Remove each brake pads from the actual caliper, prying if important. One brake pad could be attached to the caliper piston by way of clip. Loosen the clip as well as pad will fall away. If your vehicle provides you with brake pad sensor electrical wires, carefully remove the wire in the pad. The sensor wire will probably be on one pad of either the right or left wheel. Make note which wheel has the cable.
Now, its time to re-compress the caliper piston. When brake pads wear, they cause the piston to push further and further out of your caliper. The piston must possibly be pushed back in for you to fit the new, thicker brake pad set up. You can use one of many old pads and the piston compression tool or even c-clamp to push it back. Simply place the old pad over the piston and make tighter the tool or c-clamp to press it instruction online place. Use your bungee wire to hang the heavy caliper from the spring or suspension carrier as you get ready to install the newest pads. Never calipers to suspend by their brake lines as they quite simply are heavy and will damage the line. Place a few rags under the areas and spray brake parts cleaner liberally into the caliper, bolts, bracket, and so on. to thoroughly clean anything. You may need make use of your wire cleaning brush too.
http://www.shield-brakes.com/product/brake-shoe-2.html
2017年10月24日（火）
Tips on how to Change Your Brake Patches and Rotors
First, decide in case your going to replace the pads in any respect four wheels or only two. You'll replace that pads in pairs, the front wheels or rear tires. For a complete position and best results, do all 4 wheels. If you are budget and/or time demands won't allow it, can front or rear. Leading wheel brake calipers, pads, and rotors are larger than those for the rear and cost a bit more. The procedures for both are basically similar. By determining whether the brake job is perfect for two wheels or four will likely determine whether you'll jack leading, rear, or both ends of the vehicle. If you have a positive change gun to remove the lug nuts on the wheels, you can proceed when using the jacking. If you must remove the lug nuts utilizing a crowbar, you should loosen them just a little (breaking the seize) as you move the wheels are on your ground. Once the wheels come in the air, they could turn freely, which will make removing the lug nuts quite challenging, if not impossible. Safely jack the vehicle after which support it on jack stages. Never perform work while car or truck is only supported by a jack. Jacks fail and you may be putting your life at risk.
Once a wheel is definitely removed, remove the anti-rattle clip (if applicable) by way of prying it and sliding it out having a large screwdriver. Next, let me remove the brake caliper. For any front wheels, it may perhaps be necessary to turn the particular steering completely either on the right or to the left to take over the caliper guide mounting bolts. Typically, they are to the back side of that caliper. The caliper guide bolts often have dust caps. These will be made of rubber or even plastic. Use a modest screwdriver to pry these individuals out. Once the truck caps are removed, the bolt heads might be exposed. Using your ratchet plus the appropriate socket or Allen tiny bit, remove the 2 mounting bolts. Grasp the caliper and pull it far from the rotor. You should use a large screwdriver that will pry it loose. Remove each brake pads from the caliper, prying if needed. One brake pad could possibly be attached to the caliper piston by the clip. Loosen the clip as well as the pad will fall released. If your vehicle is equipped with brake pad sensor electrical wires, carefully remove the wire from the pad. The sensor wire will be on one pad of either the suitable or left wheel. Make note that wheel has the cable.
Now, its time to re-compress the caliper piston. Seeing that brake pads wear, they cause the piston for you to push further and further out of the caliper. The piston must possibly be pushed back in to be able to fit the new, thicker brake pad constantly in place. You can use on the list of old pads and some sort of piston compression tool and also c-clamp to push it last. Simply place the old pad on top of the piston and tense up the tool or c-clamp to press it back in place. Use your bungee string to hang the heavy caliper from your spring or suspension carrier while you get ready to install the fresh pads. Never calipers to stick by their brake lines while they are heavy and will damage the line. Place several rags under the parts and spray brake parts cleaner liberally towards the caliper, bolts, bracket, and many others. to thoroughly clean every thing. You may need to apply your wire cleaning brush as well.
http://de.shield-brakes.com/
Once a wheel is definitely removed, remove the anti-rattle clip (if applicable) by way of prying it and sliding it out having a large screwdriver. Next, let me remove the brake caliper. For any front wheels, it may perhaps be necessary to turn the particular steering completely either on the right or to the left to take over the caliper guide mounting bolts. Typically, they are to the back side of that caliper. The caliper guide bolts often have dust caps. These will be made of rubber or even plastic. Use a modest screwdriver to pry these individuals out. Once the truck caps are removed, the bolt heads might be exposed. Using your ratchet plus the appropriate socket or Allen tiny bit, remove the 2 mounting bolts. Grasp the caliper and pull it far from the rotor. You should use a large screwdriver that will pry it loose. Remove each brake pads from the caliper, prying if needed. One brake pad could possibly be attached to the caliper piston by the clip. Loosen the clip as well as the pad will fall released. If your vehicle is equipped with brake pad sensor electrical wires, carefully remove the wire from the pad. The sensor wire will be on one pad of either the suitable or left wheel. Make note that wheel has the cable.
Now, its time to re-compress the caliper piston. Seeing that brake pads wear, they cause the piston for you to push further and further out of the caliper. The piston must possibly be pushed back in to be able to fit the new, thicker brake pad constantly in place. You can use on the list of old pads and some sort of piston compression tool and also c-clamp to push it last. Simply place the old pad on top of the piston and tense up the tool or c-clamp to press it back in place. Use your bungee string to hang the heavy caliper from your spring or suspension carrier while you get ready to install the fresh pads. Never calipers to stick by their brake lines while they are heavy and will damage the line. Place several rags under the parts and spray brake parts cleaner liberally towards the caliper, bolts, bracket, and many others. to thoroughly clean every thing. You may need to apply your wire cleaning brush as well.
http://de.shield-brakes.com/
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